And just like that we’ve turned the corner into fall. Technically it’s still summer, and I suspect that there will be a handful of hot and humid days ahead, but there’s an indefinable shift in the air.
There’s a hint of crispness hiding behind the heat and sunshine. Images begin to collect and shimmer at the back of my mind, not entirely formed yet, but there nonetheless: freshly-sharpened pencils and backpacks and flannel shirts and steaming mugs of coffee and the cinnamon-y scent of warm apple cider.
I consulted the menu at the pizza bar for my regular Friday night order and found that the theme of the weekly special salad had taken a turn—last week it was tomato and watermelon with ricotta salata and sunflower seeds, and this week it’s roasted squash and endive with toasted pumpkin seeds.
Might as well start buying Halloween candy now!
(JUST REMEMBERED that I get to dress a baby in a Halloween costume for the first time ever! And yes, I am considering sewing a “loaf of bread” costume. Perhaps a brioche bun, with his buns exposed? Okay, sorry, I’m stopping. Back to regularly scheduled programming.)
These few weeks in between seasons are tricky in several ways. Dressing presents a constant challenge: Does one wear shorts or sweaters? When should I retire my Birkenstocks? Is it odd to pair a heathered gray crew-neck sweater with jean shorts (hope not, because that seems to be my uniform)? Do I need to pull a sweatshirt on over my bikini to paddleboard in the morning?
And then, there’s cooking. The garden still overflows with tomatoes and zucchini, but everything has begun to feel so autumnal that the prospect of grilling summer squash or corn on the cob no longer thrills me.
Finding recipes that toe the line between seasons is nice. Zucchini bread is a great option—it’s full of cozy and comforting spices, but also packed with summer produce. Tomato tart is another thought; the flaky pastry and custardy, cheesy filling say “comfort food” but the thick slices of ripe, raw tomato sing of summer.
Last week I made another dish—somewhat by accident—that perfectly encapsulates this transitional time. It’s not by any means a classic beef stroganoff, but it’s “in the style of” it, with strips of beef cooked in a creamy sauce. Instead of serving it over the traditional egg noodles or rice, I spooned the meat over zucchini ribbons.
You could certainly serve this over pasta if you want a more substantial meal—or during a season when zucchini isn’t at its peak.
A note on the porcini powder: This is totally optional, and I realize it’s a bit of an esoteric ingredient, but I strongly encourage you to buy some (you can find it on Amazon or at spice shops, and I think Trader Joe’s carries an Umami Seasoning blend which is basically just porcini powder). It’s an awesome way to add a savory, umami flavor to all kinds of dishes. If you use just a little, you won’t get any “mushroom” flavor, but your dish will taste richer and more complex. I find that I tend to need much less salt when I use it, as it accomplishes the same seasoning effect.
Beef Stroganoff with Zucchini Ribbons
1 head garlic
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
salt and pepper, to taste
2 large zucchini
12 ounces sirloin, cut into strips
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon porcini powder (optional)
1 cup vegetable broth
3 cups baby spinach
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Slice about 1/4 inch off the top of the head of garlic off, exposing the cloves. Drizzle it with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, wrap it in aluminum foil, then place it on a baking sheet and bake for about 35 minutes, or until very soft.
Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Once cool enough to handle, squeeze the individual cloves out of the papery skin—they should pop right out. Set two aside for the recipe and save the rest for another use.
While the garlic roasts, prep the zucchini: Use a vegetable peeler to peel the zucchini into wide ribbons. Divide them between two bowls (or however many you’re using for serving).
In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Add the sirloin strips and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned but not cooked through. Transfer to a plate but don’t wipe out the pan.
Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the pan. Smash the two roasted garlic cloves into a paste and add to the pan over medium heat along with the flour, porcini powder (if using), and vegetable broth. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Add the cooked steak and spinach and cook for a few minutes until the sauce thickens slightly and the meat is cooked through.
Spoon the hot stroganoff over the bowls of zucchini noodles—the heat will wilt the zucchini slightly but won’t fully cook it.